måndag 20 juli 2009

mario - Part I

Hello all of you,

ok unfortunately a little bit late...yes my email-server is an annoying thing... :) my first pictures.
I have only sorted and rescaled the pictures of the first day of the tour yet. I'll upload more pictures of the tour as soon as possible.

Greets to all

mario
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söndag 19 juli 2009

Malin - part 1

Day 1: Vellir – Kolviðarhóll (from Stefan)
As we depart from the farm Vellir, in Ölfus district, following the south main road, we shortly pass the village Hveragerði on our way to Hellisheiði Heath. Since the settlement Hellisheiði Heath has been the main public route in the country. The history of public communications in Iceland can be viewed there – from an ancient walking and riding track between Kambar Mountain Slope and Kolviðarhóll Hill marked by cairns, to the present asphalt road that was opened in 1972. Four different roadbeds can be discerned in Kambar Mountain Slope and this is the oldest built-up road in Iceland passable by cart. It lies zigzag in the slope and was constructed in 1879-1880.

We lead the horses up the slope to Kambabrún Mountain Edge entering Hellisheiði Heath. From there we continue towards Orustuhólshraun Lava Field, which is named after a hill located on it where there was a fight in the 12th century (1162) mentioned in one of the Icelandic Sagas. As we ride along the old road we have Skálafell Mountain on our left side, a volcano that is still considered to be active.

By the edge of Orustuhólshraun Lava Field we come across a grassy plain by the Hengladalsá River – usually referred to as the “Hotel” – where Eldhestar have stopped on their tours either to rest the horses or to have a bite since it started touring in 1987. We then follow the Hengladalsá River northwards approaching Skarðsmýrarfjall Mountain through Fremstidalur Valley. Passing Litla-Skarðsmýrarfjall Mountain on the left and Miðdalur Valley on the right we turn on to the old track “between lava and hill” alongside Skarðsmýrarfjall Mountain down through Hellisskarð Pass to Kolviðarhóll Hill where people used to stop and rest in previous times.

In the period 1844-1952 a refuge hut and a guesthouse were located at Kolviðarhóll Hill. On our way we pass some recent boreholes and steam pipelines that are part of the Hellisheiði Heath Geothermal Power Plant which is under construction. To our left (in the south) we have a number of scoria craters from eruptions in the Hengill system. The youngest of them were formed 2000 years ago. The power plant itself stands right beside the grassy Kolviðarhóll Hill which is surrounded by a laden wall made of lava rocks. The horses are kept in a fold nearby during the night – not far from the remains of an old sheep fold named Húsmúlarétt dating far back.
– 20 km, 4 hours



Time to leave the farm



*phu* a long climb by foot is done




















Day 2: Kolviðarhóll – Skógarhólar (from Stefan)
We depart from the fold where the horses are kept and shortly pass Draugatjörn or Ghost pond which was (and perhaps even still is) believed to be haunted. By the pond we can see the remains of the old Húsmúlarétt fold and the hut that used to be there where travellers could seek refuge in bad weather.

We then continue north alongside the Húsmúli Snout across Bolavellir or Bulls’ Plains – grassy plains where farmers from Ölfus district kept cattle grazing during the summer in previous times – and approach Engidalur Valley. On our way through Engidalur Valley we pass some extraordinary Palagonite rock formations.

At the bottom of valley we dismount and lead the horses through a narrow pass and shortly we approach the opening of Marardalur – the Valley of Horses. This is an exceptionally beautiful natural phenomenon surrounded by Palagonite crags on all sides with grassy plains at the bottom. In the old days the valley was used as a cattle fold. The better people of Reykjavík also used to ride to Marardalur Valley on Sunday excursions in the summer time.

When we have had our picnic we lead the horses through a pass out of the valley and continue to Folaldadalir Valleys across Þjófahlaup or Thieves’ Run in part following one of the old tracks or routes. As we approach Sköflungur – a low mountain ridge that separates Folaldadalir Valleys and Mosfellsheiði Heath – we turn left leading the horses down a slope to some grassland where we stop and let the horses eat.

Then we continue alongside Sköflungur in the direction of Lake Thingvallavatn which emerges as we reach the top of a low heath. Down below we come across the old gravel road through Mosfellsheiði Heath to Thingvellir and the day riding ends where it crosses Grafningsvegur road near Heiðarbæir farms in Thingvallasveit district.

From there the horses are transported by car to Skógarhólar North West of Thingvellir. When the horses have been taken care of we go by car to Thingvellir National Park and walk through Almannagjá Gorge passing Lögberg (Law Rock) where Icelanders had their assembly called Althing for centuries. Some claim that Althing is the oldest parliament in the world – and as such the cradle of democracy. We spend the night in a shack at Skógarhólar.
– 30 km, 6-7 hours




























































/Malin

Malin - part 2

Day 3: Skógarhólar – Kringlumýri (from Stefan)
Departing from Skógarhólar we turn left and ride northwards alongside Ármanssfell Mountain in the direction of Skjaldbreiður Volcano with Thingvellir National Park to our right. Shortly we arrive at a gate and enter the National Park. We ride through the National Park from north to south down to Lake Thingvallavatn along trails that were used by our ancestors all the way back to the settlement. The National Park covers a lava field that flowed some 9 thousand years ago. As time passed the area has subsided by tens of metres forming a rift valley with innumerable cracks. The rift valley itself is circumscribed by Almannagjá Gorge to the west and Hrafnagjá Gorge to the east. Some of the cracks in between are filled with water. The Lava field is covered with gray moss, ling and birch wood. For many Icelanders Thingvellir is an invaluable national treasure – a “sacred” place that captures the essence of our nationality, cultural heritage and precious nature. On our way we pass Hrauntún and Skógarkot – the remains of deserted farmlands from previous times surrounded by laden walls made of lava rocks. Usually we stop at Skógarkot and rest for a while on the grassy plains there and let the horses eat. As we reach the watershed of Lake Thingvallavatn we turn left and head towards Gjábakki farmland (where we have our lunch) crossing Bæjargjá Gorge on our way shortly before departing from the National Park. Then we continue eastwards alongside Gjábakkavegur road in the direction of Laugarvatn – a tiny village standing by a lake with the same name. Midway between Gjábakki farmland and Laugarvatn village is a cave that was inhabited for a few years in the first decades of the last century. From there we turn south in the direction of Lyngdalsheiði Heath – an old shield volcano – heading for Kringlumýri shack where we spend the night.
– 28 km, 5-6 hours




















Day 4: Kringlumýri – Villingavatn (from Stefan)
When departing from Kringlumýri we head west at first and then south in the direction of Lake Thingvallavatn and Lake Úlfljótsvatn. On our way we have a great view of Thingvellir and vicinity surrounded by majestic volcanoes in all directions. Compared to the surface on the tour hitherto the track is soft and comfortable for the horses. The riding is easy and relatively fast. Halfway between Kringulmýri and Villingavatn farm we pass Steingrímsstöð – a Hydroelectric Power Plant driven by a river that runs from Lake Thingvallavatn to Lake Úlfljótsvatn. As we ride along the track leading from Steingrímsstöð to Villingavatn farm we have, in part, a nice view of both lakes simultaneously. The day riding ends at Villingavatn farm where the horses are kept during the night. From there we go by car back to Vellir farm. We spend the rest of the day as we like. For instance, by going to the swimming pool in Hveragerði village – a beautifully located outdoor swimming pool with a natural steam bath and comfortable hot tubs – or by going on shorter sightseeing tours or to arts exhibitions in the vicinity.
– 15 km, 3-4 hours

























waterbreak at lake thingvallavatn

When we arrived at Vellir, we went for the pool to wash up..









Day 5: Villingavatn – Reykjadalur – Vellir (from Stefan)
We depart from Villingavatn farm heading south in the direction of Reykjadalur Valley. To the west near Lake Thingvallavatn is Ölfusvatn farmland where Chieftain Grímkell Bjarnason, who was among the settlers of Iceland, built his farm. Shortly we pass the deserted farmhouse at Krókur farm and approach Súlufell Mountain. From there we ride upwards the mountains following a track across Kattartjarnahryggur Ridge. As we ascend a beautiful view over Lake Thingvallavatn and vicinity gradually emerges. In bright weather Mountain Hekla and the glaciers in the south, Eyjafjallajökull and Tindfjallajökull, appear on the horizon to the east as well. On our way we pass Hrómundartindur Peak which is one of two (or three) volcanic systems in the Hengill area and is still active. The track leads to Kattartjarnir Ponds shimmering in blue and grey – these are explosion pits or maars that reach below the groundwater level and are therefore filled with water. We ride by the waterside of the upper Kattartjörn Pond and continue from there towards Reykjadalur Valley passing Álftatjörn Pond and some hot springs at Ölkelduháls Low Ridge on our way.
Old folktales mention so called “hotspring birds” in hotsprings by Ölkelduháls and in Hagavíkurlaugar Pools. They were described as small and dark and believed to be swimming on boiling hot springs. According to the folktales there was no use boiling them, but if they were put into cold water they would taste as if they had been boiled. Shortly we pass Ölkelduhnúkur Peak and approach Klambragil Gully and Fálkaklettar Cliffs that lead us down to Reykjadalur Valley. The valley draws its name from the many hot springs located there. Those who wish can bathe in the valley’s warm rivulet before we leave for Vellir where the tour ends. As we approach Hveragerði riding through Ölfusdalur Valley we pass Leppalúði by the road to Gufudalur Valley, a spouting hot spring or geyser, named after a famous ogre of Icelandic folklore. It spouts constantly to a height of three to four metres. Nearby, close to the opening of Ölfusdalur Valley, is another spouting hot spring, Grýla, named after Leppalúði’s ogress wife. Grýla now erupts only rarely, but at its best it used to spout a column of water to a height of 15 metres. We follow the mountainside of Reykjafjall the last part of the way. From the farm at Vellir we go by car back to Reykjavík.
– 20 km, 4-5 hours







Mystic river?























Poor Stefan and Sofia had to watch to horses when we took our bath





Time to say goodbye..

/Malin