Thingvellir 2009

Day 1: Vellir – Kolviðarhóll (from Stefan)
As we depart from the farm Vellir, in Ölfus district, following the south main road, we shortly pass the village Hveragerði on our way to Hellisheiði Heath. Since the settlement Hellisheiði Heath has been the main public route in the country. The history of public communications in Iceland can be viewed there – from an ancient walking and riding track between Kambar Mountain Slope and Kolviðarhóll Hill marked by cairns, to the present asphalt road that was opened in 1972. Four different roadbeds can be discerned in Kambar Mountain Slope and this is the oldest built-up road in Iceland passable by cart. It lies zigzag in the slope and was constructed in 1879-1880.

We lead the horses up the slope to Kambabrún Mountain Edge entering Hellisheiði Heath. From there we continue towards Orustuhólshraun Lava Field, which is named after a hill located on it where there was a fight in the 12th century (1162) mentioned in one of the Icelandic Sagas. As we ride along the old road we have Skálafell Mountain on our left side, a volcano that is still considered to be active.

By the edge of Orustuhólshraun Lava Field we come across a grassy plain by the Hengladalsá River – usually referred to as the “Hotel” – where Eldhestar have stopped on their tours either to rest the horses or to have a bite since it started touring in 1987. We then follow the Hengladalsá River northwards approaching Skarðsmýrarfjall Mountain through Fremstidalur Valley. Passing Litla-Skarðsmýrarfjall Mountain on the left and Miðdalur Valley on the right we turn on to the old track “between lava and hill” alongside Skarðsmýrarfjall Mountain down through Hellisskarð Pass to Kolviðarhóll Hill where people used to stop and rest in previous times.

In the period 1844-1952 a refuge hut and a guesthouse were located at Kolviðarhóll Hill. On our way we pass some recent boreholes and steam pipelines that are part of the Hellisheiði Heath Geothermal Power Plant which is under construction. To our left (in the south) we have a number of scoria craters from eruptions in the Hengill system. The youngest of them were formed 2000 years ago. The power plant itself stands right beside the grassy Kolviðarhóll Hill which is surrounded by a laden wall made of lava rocks. The horses are kept in a fold nearby during the night – not far from the remains of an old sheep fold named Húsmúlarétt dating far back.
– 20 km, 4 hours

Time to leave the farm

*phu* a long climb by foot is done

Day 2: Kolviðarhóll – Skógarhólar (from Stefan)
We depart from the fold where the horses are kept and shortly pass Draugatjörn or Ghost pond which was (and perhaps even still is) believed to be haunted. By the pond we can see the remains of the old Húsmúlarétt fold and the hut that used to be there where travellers could seek refuge in bad weather.

We then continue north alongside the Húsmúli Snout across Bolavellir or Bulls’ Plains – grassy plains where farmers from Ölfus district kept cattle grazing during the summer in previous times – and approach Engidalur Valley. On our way through Engidalur Valley we pass some extraordinary Palagonite rock formations.

At the bottom of valley we dismount and lead the horses through a narrow pass and shortly we approach the opening of Marardalur – the Valley of Horses. This is an exceptionally beautiful natural phenomenon surrounded by Palagonite crags on all sides with grassy plains at the bottom. In the old days the valley was used as a cattle fold. The better people of Reykjavík also used to ride to Marardalur Valley on Sunday excursions in the summer time.

When we have had our picnic we lead the horses through a pass out of the valley and continue to Folaldadalir Valleys across Þjófahlaup or Thieves’ Run in part following one of the old tracks or routes. As we approach Sköflungur – a low mountain ridge that separates Folaldadalir Valleys and Mosfellsheiði Heath – we turn left leading the horses down a slope to some grassland where we stop and let the horses eat.

Then we continue alongside Sköflungur in the direction of Lake Thingvallavatn which emerges as we reach the top of a low heath. Down below we come across the old gravel road through Mosfellsheiði Heath to Thingvellir and the day riding ends where it crosses Grafningsvegur road near Heiðarbæir farms in Thingvallasveit district.

From there the horses are transported by car to Skógarhólar North West of Thingvellir. When the horses have been taken care of we go by car to Thingvellir National Park and walk through Almannagjá Gorge passing Lögberg (Law Rock) where Icelanders had their assembly called Althing for centuries. Some claim that Althing is the oldest parliament in the world – and as such the cradle of democracy. We spend the night in a shack at Skógarhólar.
– 30 km, 6-7 hours